There are some raw ingredients that make all the difference when you use them in your dishes. For us, this special ingredient is Baccalà, a product that is born of a sacred ritual for us at Cucina di Paola 1985.
The ritual of Baccalà.
It all starts on the islands of Lofoten.
The story of our Baccalà does not begin in just any market, not even on the counter of an Italian one. There is of course a supplier, but it is in Norway. Because we personally choose the dried stockfish from the island of Røst in Lofoten.
In this archipelago, between the counties of Nordland and Troms in the north-west of the country, the deep, cold waters are home to this fish which is so precious to our cuisine: cod. Fishermen know the coastlines, fjords and best parts of these wild yet rich seas.
You can see, then, that fishing is like a religion here. A ritual. It has also become a ritual for us: every year we go to Norway to choose the best Baccalà to use in our cusine: Cucina di Paola 1985.
We know that we cannot delegate such an important operation to others: we put our name to it, and we only want the best stockfish. We are producers of good gastronomy but also selectors of character.
Caught and dried.
Baccalà allows you to combine two great privileges: unique taste and nutritional value. When you eat this dried cod, you can taste the Norwegian sea and experience a full-flavoured and delicate fish. It is 100% natural and rich in protein. But to achieve this, you have to respect the production process, which is obtained by following a series of well-established steps.
The catch
The choice of Norwegian Baccalà starts with the catch: we choose stockfish, which is produced from skrei, the migratory cod which, with precise seasonal rhythms, returns to the Norwegian coast from the Barents Sea in January. This is a prized fish, rich in protein and Omega 3: from a nutritional point of view, 1 kg of this product is equivalent to 4 kg of any other fresh fish.
Drying
It is the way in which this plentiful raw ingredient is treated that changes everything. The cod is hung on racks or hedges the same day it is caught until mid-April, the best time. Wind, frost, rain, sun, snow and salt air. Then it has to be removed and put into a drying room to undergo a further drying period.
Finally the Baccalà is sorted according to size and quality and goes into jute sacks.
We select our fish in Norway.
In order to choose the stockfish to use in our recipes, every year in July we go to Norway to meet our trusted selectors. They are the Vrakeren, experienced people we have known for years and in whom we have every faith.
In the summer months, from June to August, trusted selectors help us choose the best cod based on parameters such as length, size, colour and weight. This combination is important because then the ingredients are the same as they have been for centuries: the best Nordic cod, the experience of those who process them with the utmost care, and the sun and wind of Lofoten.
We only choose rod-caught fish, which are of the highest quality and better than those caught with a trawl net, such as the Westre Magro type, which is lean, without too much flesh, brightly coloured and very white.
Processing the Baccalà is an art form.
It all starts with a quality raw ingredient. But the processing of stockfish is an art for us. There are certain stages that are key to getting the best result.
Beating
This is the Veneto tradition: we beat and soak the stock fish to obtain a pulp of small flakes. We achieve this result with a specific machine, designed and built by us.
The Baccalà is beaten both horizontally and vertically, so its fibres are not damaged, but are just stretched and ready for soaking. The stockfish will absorb more water, its flesh will be revitalised and its tenderness will be outstanding.
Soaking
Soaking takes between three and seven days. This has to be done after the beating of the fish with cold, running water. Soaking (or “mollatura”) is the phase which serves to restore the right moisture to the dehydrated fish after drying. This is a true art form, certain balances must be obtained and extreme care taken: only in this way is it possible to have a quality product to bring to the table.
De-boning
De-boning is done strictly by hand, which helps us to increase the goodness and quality of the product. It takes longer with this technique but the pleasure of bringing a tasty dish to the table is our goal. That’s why we have no problem working hard with stockfish de-boning.
What happens in the kitchen.
In our kitchen we prepare the Baccalà dishes and we do it the traditional way: by hand. This allows us to maintain high quality standards, whilst at the same time using the right amount of technology to help us.
The care we take on a daily basis allows us to avoid the use of artificial colours and preservatives. This is how we are able to maintain the well-known qualities of Nordic cod, savoured by enjoying its tenderness and rich intensity.
Would you like to try our Baccalà?
Now you know how we select it, where we buy it and why we are involved personally. You know why we talk about a Baccalà ritual. There is now only one way to complete the journey: take a look at our selection of gourmet products based on good Norwegian fish, dried and processed as only the Norwegians know how.
